It’s a very long time since I last visited Whitby, on the edge of the North Yorkshire Moors. The very first time was well over fifty years ago when my old school chum, Robinson, P, and I passed through on the now-legendary Lambretta trek of 1965, when we rode from south Essex to Edinburgh (and back) for the, then, nascent Edinburgh Festival Fringe. (It was worth it – we were sensational!) I only remember the brooding Abbey ruins which, apparently, helped to inspire Bram Stoker’s page-turner, Dracula, and the name of a local photographer, Frank Meadow Sutcliffe, who documented Whitby life in monochromatic Victorian and early twentieth-century times. It is a large busy town, with a fishing fleet, harbour, beaches and many restaurants, pubs, “tourist” shops, and steep twisting paths and lanes, amongst which is Demeter Cottage, where we stayed for a week.