London

We’ve been in London for a few days. We stayed near to “The Gherkin”, more prosaically known as 30 St Mary Axe, between Fenchurch Street railway station (where I used to alight from Leigh-on-Sea), and Liverpool Street railway station (which I used when the Fenchurch Street line was inoperable, which was often as it was one of the oldest, dirtiest and most unreliable lines – and was one of the last to be converted from steam power).

We visit London a few times a year, mostly for exhibitions and galleries. Also, a couple of years ago we walked the Thames Path (mainly, through London, on the South Bank) and a few months ago we spent a while exploring the canals in East London (when further research revealed that S. and I had grandparents who lived only a few streets apart near what is now the 2012 Olympic Park, in the 1920s). However, it’s a long time since I wandered around the area where I used to work, rather than drive hurriedly through. The building I worked in, at the junction of Fenchurch Street and Gracechurch Street, EC3, was, in the ‘sixties, an imposing 14-storey affair with an expensive statue outside, marbled halls, mezzanine and cool, ceramic-tiled lavatories, where I retired regularly to smoke my Stuyvesant cigarettes and contemplate the stupidity of mankind.

Well, that building is now long-gone. Its replacement houses a Boots The Chemist on the ground floor. There is a Marks and Spencers over the road and a Peacocks-type cheap clothes shop on the opposite corner.

When I worked there, men still wore bowler hats. Non-ironically!

We had pre-booked to visit the Manet Exhibition at The Royal Acadamy. As usual with “big name” exhibitions, it was very busy. More enjoyable, really, were the many more-or-less spontaneous, mostly free, visits we made. These included:
The Garden Museum.
Tate Modern (the Turbine Hall being made ready for a Kraftwerk concert).
Tate Britain (much more relaxed and varied than TM, I think).
The Barbican (to visit a “Rain Room” exhibition which we had to miss due to a minimum two-hour queuing time – nice just to wander around, though).

A particularly unexpected gem was The Old Operating Theatre, just south of London Bridge, along the road from the very new Shard building. The Operating Theatre is now a museum but was a surgical theatre in the very early days of medical surgery. We managed to stand at the back during a student lecture which was fascinating.

We had some nice food while we were in London: Turkish, Japanese and seafood. Also breakfast in a butchers in Leadenhall Market which was a first, particularly for a non-meat eater like me.

Leadenhall Market.

Leadenhall Market.

Speaking of eateries, there are an unbelievable number of Pret À Porters in London. You can stand on some junctions and see three at once! They must be doing something right.

The Ship, Talbot Court, EC3.

The Ship, Talbot Court, EC3.

The Ship, a few yards from where I worked and where I used to have lunch and play darts and, in 1969, watch the Apollo Moon landings on a television in the upstairs room. Talbot Court is close to Pudding Lane, where the Great Fire started, destroying the previous pub, The Talbot. Apparently.

 

St Dunstan's Church garden.

St Dunstan’s Church garden.

The Tower of London.

The Tower of London.

The "Shard", from Tower Bridge.

The “Shard”, from Tower Bridge.

The Old Operating Theatre, formerly part of St Thomas' Hospital.

The Old Operating Theatre, formerly part of St Thomas’ Hospital.

The Old Operating Theatre herb garret.

The Old Operating Theatre herb garret.

Fantastic cafe in Borough Market (despite initial gross over-charging).

Fantastic cafe in Borough Market (despite initial gross over-charging).

Cafe sun shades near Borough Market, South Bank.

Cafe sun shades near Borough Market, South Bank.

Wall decoration in restaurant at Gabriel's Wharf.

Wall decoration in restaurant at Gabriel’s Wharf.


South Bank Grafitti

South Bank Grafitti

Stairs in Tate Britain.

Stairs in Tate Britain.

Middlesex Street (Petticoat Lane).

Middlesex Street (Petticoat Lane).

Liverpool Street railway station.

Liverpool Street railway station.

Collage at The Photographers' Gallery


P1000755_crop800 Collage at The Photographers’ Gallery

Sculpture outside Old Smithfield Market.

Sculpture outside Old Smithfield Market.

The Garden Museum, by Lambeth Palace, and Bridge.

The Garden Museum, by Lambeth Palace, and Bridge.

The Garden Museum

The Garden Museum

China town, six days before  New Year.

China town, six days before New Year.

Busking tuba player on South Bank. The ignited gas comes out the top with each note. But is it art?

Busking tuba player on South Bank. The ignited gas comes out the top with each note. But is it art?


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“The Palace of Varieties.”

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Photo printing

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After much research, I had finally found a photo processor who can print, at reasonable cost, photographs larger than A4 (my printers’ maximum size). Quite often the result tends to be rather dark, when compared with a computer monitor. I’m told that this is partly because most people have their monitor set too bright. Anyway, as long as I increased the brightness a bit before sending my photo file to the supplier’s website, they sent back a nice shiny print on good-quality paper; only £2.00, including postage for an 11.5″ x 8″ print.

I received the picture above, of a boy in mid-jump at a skate park in Clevedon (a few miles down the coast from me) a couple of weeks ago. Just before the supplier, Jessops, went into receivership! [See entry 24th January 2013]

The search continues…

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Tapas and “World Folk Jazz”

Last night we met Miles at The Lido for a drink and snack. He gave me a portable chess set so that, as well as beating me in person, he can now play, and beat, me via our smart-phones.

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S and I then went to St George’s Hall to see two “minimalist” folk bands, Spiro and Three Cane Whale. I hadn’t heard of either of them before. They were good, playing a variety of instruments (no vocals) including zither, bouzouki, glockenspiel, bowed psaltery and lyre, as well as the more recognisable guitar, mandolin, violin, cello, banjo, trumpet and accordion. We appeared to fit in well with the audience demographic. I enjoyed the music, and the two pints of Bath Ales’ Gem, although, call me a philestine, I felt an electric slide guitar could have perked things up a bit. Which, I admit, is probably missing the point.

bathMarket_forBlog
Today, we went to Bath. I lived in Bath for a couple of years in a former life, and I never fail to annoy S. by retelling stories of where I lived and who I knew. As usual, though, it didn’t fail to charm, despite being “up itself” a bit (lots of brand new Range Rovers and Barbour in evidence today). A few weeks ago I bought a second-hand Harris Tweed Jacket at the outdoor market “Digs”, above, and wanted to see if they had any more that would fit me. They didn’t, so more money saved! S. bought a dress, though, which was much nicer on than I thought it would be.

Which famous record cover does that photo remind you of?

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Special day

Burns Night, as well as other causes for celebration.

The snow has gone outside our house, but is still quite deep in surrounding countryside. A walk thought Ashton Court, Leigh Woods and Abbots’ Pool was quite icy.
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This igloo had seen better days, but it was still significantly warmer inside.

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The picture above is near Clifton Rugby club. G&A popped in this afternoon with Jamie Oliver’s 15 min. meals book, which was very nice. A recommended a beef dish which, as I haven’t eaten meat for thirty years, may not not happen, but there were plenty of other options.

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Retail Therapy

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As my computer course was cancelled yesterday, S suggested that we go “up to The Mall”, a huge retail park north of Bristol. There is nothing we need to buy, but as it was, by now, sleeting, and the ground is very wet from all the melting snow, a vast shopping mall offers somewhere warm and dry where you can walk for a mile or so.

I know, I know, it’s all very sad. The idea of “retail therapy” is now seen as just a bit pathetic, but was so popular a decade ago. But that was when politicians, even some economists, were describing retail, and other services like banking, as an “industry”. It is not. Of course, we need shops. But the idea that we can sustain an economy by (mostly) importing stuff and then just selling it to each other (often on unsustainable credit) has always struck me as ridiculous.

This idea began (I would suggest) in the nineteen-eighties when the almost racist idea that dirty stuff involving factories and working outdoors would be best done by poorly-paid foreigners, usually in the far east, and the really clever stuff, like product design, banking, share-dealing, property speculation, going on holiday, eating out and funding the arts would be our responsibility in “The West”.

No-one told the foreigners, though, who, blimey, found that, they were quite able to do “the clever” things for themselves actually, thanks very much. In the meantime, Western countries are now up to their necks in debt, and desperately trying to “balance the economy”, i.e. get back to making and growing things for themselves.

I like the new regime, or “current climate” as it’s now known. I like the idea of saving up for, say, a really good quality, and therefore expensive, jacket which is going to last years, if you look after it. And repairing things rather than throwing them away. And making things, and growing food, in this country instead of transporting everything around the world.

CribbsCauseway

Back to The Mall. As these places go, it was looking bright and clean and there are fewer empty units than I was expecting. But many shops were empty of customers, some big names have closed down recently: Jessops (of which more in a day or two) and HMV are the latest. The problem is that all the shops here are national chains; I could find exactly the same products in any town, so why would anyone come here, specifically, for any reason other than that it is the nearest incarnation of, say Next, M&S, Accessorize, H&M, Sole Trader, Clarks Shoes, H Samuel, other well-known jewellers, BHS, Boots, Waterstones (where I bought two books, actually), all the usual phone shops, Apple, Hush Puppies. And John Lewis. When you look through this list one thing strikes me: they mostly sell things that we don’t really need – blingy clothes, garish jewellery and unnecessary technology seem to predominate.

OK, rant over.

Jessops Camera Shops, in receivership.

Jessops Camera Shops, in receivership.


HMV, in receivership.

HMV, in receivership.

The Architects - two full size upright figures inside the Mall, in bronze effect GRP, by Aden Hynes.

The Architects – two full size upright figures inside the Mall. Did they create a huge white elephant or a useful, comfortable place to shop? We’ll know soon… Artwork, in bronze effect GRP, by Aden Hynes.

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Ella’s fund

One of the great characters of the very early days of The Bristol Hash House Harriers was Jo Tarzey. Sane, strong and clever, and lots of fun, everyone admired and liked her. Still do, I’m sure, although we have sort of lost touch over the years (possibly something to do with a running joke we had about rubber underwear, the origins of which I have fortunately forgotten).

Anyway, Jo and her former husband, Bob Redman, had two daughters, the older of whom, Ella, died last November as a result of bone cancer. She was twenty. Ella was keen to promote research into cancers that are common amongst young people and improving the facilities available for their treatment.  I know everyone has their own favourite charities and we don’t like others telling us what we should be supporting, but, if you can, please give here:

http://www.justgiving.com/remembering-ella-redman.

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Age UK

Snow in Jubilee Park
This, currently, is the view from our house. The slope is very popular with young tobagganeers. The grass should have grown back by Spring.

Today, I walked the half mile or so to our shiny new public library where I teach technophobes how to use computers once a week. This is for AgeUK, a charity for older people. Actually, the idea that people have similar needs because they are of a broadly similar age seems vaguely ridiculous to me (like “black” music), and this is being born out by experience. The people I have been teaching over the last few years are varied, enthusiastic and, mostly, interesting. They are as capable as anyone else, but have simply never got around to taking the plunge into the intimidating world of information technology. (Too busy fighting wars and raising children!) Often, they have always had their children or, now, grand-children to do it for them.

Because of the weather, though, today’s session was cancelled. So I walked back home again.

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Wilko

When I was in the Sixth Form at school in Essex in the mid ‘sixties everyone could play the guitar or drums and was in a band, or “group”.

Actually, for “everyone”, read “boys” and for “could”, read “thought they could”. Dave, Oscar and I, with a series of drummers, had a moderate success around the pubs, dives and holiday camps of south Essex, which lasted just long enough to distract us from our A-level studies.

One fellow pupil, however, put the rest of us very firmly in the shade: John Wilkinson actually could play the guitar, as demonstrated during impromptu lunchtime jam sessions. He was a good artist, took Shakespeare in his stride and, as we used to say in those days, was a nice bloke. He travelled in every day from a place called Canvey Island, where, we had it on good authority, dragons dwelt. Although we were in the same Eng. Lit. class for a while, and I think he leant me an amplifier once, we were never close friends and didn’t keep in touch. The last I remember, in the final hay-fever-filled weeks of our schooldays, was that he had been offered a job in Donovan’s backing band, which he declined, much to our amazement. We left school, I heard that he’d gone on the hippy trail to India then to university. I gave up the music business, due to the fact that the levels of drunkenness required in our audiences for them to tolerate us was becoming unsustainable, even in Essex, and a few years later I moved to Bristol.

Then, in the early ‘seventies, a band called Doctor Feelgood appeared, fronted by a robotic guitarist with a familiar lead and rhythm style: no longer John Wilkinson, now, of course, Wilko Johnson.

Well, all this preamble is because a friend told me on Sunday that Wilko has incurable pancreatic cancer. He has decided against chemotherapy but is doing a tour in March to thank all his fans.

BBC Front Row interview.

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The Mathew

The Mathew
Cabot’s ship The Mathew in the Underfall Yard for maintenance. 22 January 2013.

The Underfall Yard, in Bristol Harbour, was constructed in the early 19th century with revisions by Isambard Kingdom Brunel in the 1830s. Following restoration in the 1990s, this Victorian work yard is now a Scheduled Monument that includes several listed buildings. The harbour and its equipment are still actively maintained, and host a cooperative of boat builders.

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Weston-Super-Mare

We’ve just walked from one end of Weston-Super-Mare (the southern, golf club end) to the other (Birnbeck Pier) and back. Millions of pounds have been spent on Weston in recent years, upgrading the sea defences, Grand Pier and other facilities. The trouble is, one can’t help comparing it with Deauville or, better, Trouville, or Le Touquet, or La Rochelle or, well, dozens of European seaside towns. Admittedly, any town looks sad out of season, but it’s not helped by the lowest-common-denominator shops. Identical, down-market cafes selling low-grade, unimaginative, fast food, “Pound” shops, national chains, etc. In France, the place would be packed out with restaurants selling fabulous, fresh, locally caught sea food, with good value wine, beers. Waiters in crisp white aprons. And they’d be full of all age groups. Something to be proud of. The best we get here is a choice of battered cod or battered plaice. And chips. 

Well, is was a Monday.

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