We’ve been in Sicily for three weeks. We liked Sicily when we came a couple of years ago, but we were mostly on the east of the island then and didn’t get a chance to explore the capital, Palermo. Also, at this time of year, we weren’t going to spend much time sunbathing so the city seemed a good choice.

The flight went smoothly, apart from some gut-wrenching turbulence coming in to land, followed by the obligatory round of applause. Then a coach into the city followed by a 200m walk to our studio flat. Actually described as a “mezzanine” flat as the living/kitchen/bathroom is on one level with the open bedroom on, you’ve guessed it, a mezzanine level. Quite large. The kitchen is far short of Sal’s normal extensive requirements, but it should do for breakfasts and the occasional uncomplicated meal, she thinks.

The owners of the building are a pleasant family, and we met many of them as people wandered in and out while some sense was being made of their reservation and accounting system.

Sunday 19th January. Just finding our way around, went to the Piazza Marina and a bric-a-brac market in the Gardinio Garibaldi. Walking back we spotted an interesting-looking narrow lane with restaurants across the road and so ended up having a larger lunch than intended. Several courses: ante-pasta, pasta, fish/meat and dessert (well, a chopped orange) with a litre of wine – 25 euros for both of us.

Monday 20th. We did the first ten items in the guide book. Well, it’s as good a way as any! Also, the Ballerio north African market area.

Tuesday 21st. Botanic gardens and the Cathedral.

Wednesday 22nd. Walked to the north-west up Monte Pellegrino. The hill had some supernatural legacy as it is devoted to Santa Rosalia, who, it is reputed, has appeared to a number of specially-gifted/feeble-minded people over the centuries. Very steep but mostly well-maintained paths. Good range of flora. I feel like Homer Simpson as Sal describes the origins and etymology of all the species, how they are related to each other and to British plants, what sort of soil and other conditions suit them. We both know that, fascinating though I find this information at the time, it will be lost forever within minutes of being entrusted to my brain’s filing system. Everything about the walk was great apart from the actual Santa Rosalia Sanctuary, with its very tacky souvenir stalls. We bought two not-very-nice expensive coffees from a surly woman who was much more interested in the imminent arrival of some coach parties. Happy to get back on the mountain trails.

Thursday, 23rd. A walk to The English Gardens, plus markets and churches.

Friday, 24th. Showers, so good day for the Museum of Modern Art.

Saturday, 25th.

Sunday, 26th. Walked up the coast, past a huge cemetery packed out with flower-bearing visitors, to a beach-side restaurant called La Mattanza. Really busy, mostly families, probably from the graveyard. Great meal. On walk back all the flower sellers now disappeared and cemetery locked.

Monday, 27th. Lazy day. Went to supermarket. Watched Pointless and University Challenge. Just like being at home.

Tuesday, 28th. The catacombs of the capuchin monks. A bizarre and memorable visit. No photos allowed so click HEREhttps://www.wondersofsicily.com/palermo-capuchin-catacombs.htm for more details, if you dare! Then to the nearby Zisi Palace. Moorish.

Wednesday, 29th. Mondello by bus. Nice seaside town on the coast to north. Seafood lunch, etc.

Thursday 30th.
Walked around the left of Montepelligrino through the Parco Della Favorita, then turned south to the Palazzina Cinese. Fabulous place, built by the sister of Marie Antoinette to make her more famous sibling jealous. Interior restored to a high standard, including wall and ceiling paintings and a marbled basement bathing pool.

Friday 31st. Warm but overcast day so just pottered about. Visited local supermarket and then read books (me Jeeves and the Wedding Bells by Sebastian Faulks and The First World War by AJP Taylor, and Sal Hotel du Lac by Anita Brookner) and Sal made use of her paints, see below:

Saturday 1st February. Just wandering around, mainly street markets.

Monday 3rd.

Walked along coast to south-east. Less interesting than the other way, but nice bright day and good sea views.

Tuesday 4th. Caught bus up into hills, to Monreale. Fabulous church, even for an atheist, with world-famous monastery cloisters. Nice day so walked all the way back.

Thursday 6th. Back up the coast to Mondello. Even nicer day than last time. Ate in same restaurant, thereby becoming regulars.

Friday 7th. Back up Monte Pellegrino again, with a picnic. Warmer than last time, same spectacular views, improved by avoiding the Santa Rosalia Sanctuary.

Saturday 8th. Flying back to London today. Sal dreading landing at Gatwick as weather reports are dire. As it happens, landing is much better then three weeks ago arriving in Palermo.