Bagnoles de l’Orne, Basse-Normandie, France

We’ve been to Bagnoles for a couple of weeks. We’ve visited the town a few times, either to stay or en route to somewhere else. It’s a genteel but relaxed and comfortable place, with some good restaurants, interesting Belle Époque architecture, a lake and casino. Not a seedy rip-off casino, popular in British suburbs, but a rather restrained affair populated by elderly, fur-clad, mesdames drinking tea.

Best of all is the Forêt des Andaines to the north of the town. I could walk all day (which we did, often) in these forests and in Autumn there is the added incentive of ceps (fungi) and chestnuts to be collected. Ceps are €30 a kilo in the local shops and markets and the few other people we encountered in the woods were all carrying a basket or bag in case any were found. Sally should take all the credit, as usual, as she not only knew what wouldn’t (and would) kill us, but also was much better at finding them than I was, and also (surprise, surprise) better at cooking them. I was in charge of carrying and subsequently eating them. An ancient path runs through these forests which has been used for at least 1000 years by monks and others travelling between Paris and the coast, and there are a number of interesting small chapels and other artefacts, as well as ghosts for those of a nervous and/or gullible disposition.

We also visited many of the surrounding towns and villages (mostly on their market days) and got as far as the coast at Mont St Michel, a nightmare to visit at the height of the Summer as it’s so crowded, but much easier at this time of year.

On this and our previous visit we have stayed in a small apartment in the Tessé-la-Madeleine end of the town (until 2000 a separate village), a few metres from the gardens surrounding the chateau.